Musings of a Flâneuse: Sheung Wan HONG KONG
Flâneuse
Pronunciation: /flaˈnəːz/
A woman who saunters around observing life and society; a leisurely woman about town.
Since the first time living alone for an extended period of time at the age of 18 where I interned at a Chinese Bank for Wealth Management in Beijing for two and a half months in the summer, I have found myself adopting the practices of a Flâneuse - before I even knew that such a word existed in the English (or French?) language to describe the actions I were partaking in during my spare time.
Oftentimes, the best ways to explore a place, whether it’s a city of inhabitant or small town that’s a casual stop by on a longer trip, is to walk around with no particular destination or goal in mind but simply taking in the beauty and offerings of its surroundings. It’s through these aimless wanderings throughout different corners of the world that I have found daily inspirations, often simple things, and as a result, discovered piece by piece who I am as an individual.
This past weekend, I strolled through one of my favorite neighborhoods in Hong Kong, with no particular place to go in mind. Sheung Wan, the first neighborhood I lived in since moving to Hong Kong two hot and humid summers ago.
Sheung Wan, or in Chinese - 上环, meaning the Upper Ring, is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Hong Kong Island and one that has seen many transformations throughout the years. It still has the remnants of the traditional Chinese cultural and architectural elements, including the dry seafood markets, herbal medicine, and cart-noodle restaurants. Yet, it is also experiencing a revitalization and introduction of modern, artistic Western elements of graffiti art, hipster cafes, and artisanal restaurants and bars.
I started out my walk in the neighborhood at Blake Garden, which I learnt that it was the first public garden built for the Chinese population of Hong Kong under the British Colonial rule. Next to the Garden is a wonderful red brick structure with exterior arches, the Hong Kong Museum of Medical Science. Built in 1906, the building was home to the first bacteriology institute in Hong Kong, which during the late to early 1900s experienced waves of plague. For $20 HKD per person, we visited the various small exhibits on the history of bacteriology in Hong Kong, including equipment and methods used from the 1900s all the way to the SARs epidemic in the early 2000s. The facility also has a beautiful outdoor garden.
Outdoor Views from the Hong Kong Museum of Medical Sciences
Heading down towards Kui In Fong Road next to Blake Garden, we stumbled upon one of the cutest bookstores, Mount Zero with a small outdoor seating and an indoor upstairs nook. Next to it is a newly opened DIY paint studio. I believe it used to be a thrift store when I came here previously. Its bold blue against the aisles and finished paintings complimented Mount Zero next door, giving the entire corner an air of creativity and hipster-vibe.
Peach Ice Tea at Ohmns Cafe & Bar, Sheung Wan
Lastly, this particular summer afternoon’s flânning ended with an ice cold drink from Ohms Cafe & Bar. At first glance, the cafe had all the necessities required for a leisure drink - prime people-watching seating: wooden benches next to the window facing the streets. Calming, wooden furniture that provided a sense of tropical vibe. I came to know later upon entering that it was one of the few vegan restaurants in town. I ordered an ice peach tea, which was served to me on a cute glass - but sadly, it just tasted like peach syrup (too sweet) with ice. No tea! Bummer indeed but fortunately did the trick of cooling me down on a hot, humid, Hong Kong summer day.
With no purpose, no destination, and no particular “to-do” list in mind other than to explore whichever corner I stumble upon in the neighborhood, I was truly able to take a moment to relax and reflect.
Until next time~
